Author Topic: Help  (Read 3119 times)

Offline SAB

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Re: Help
« Reply #15 on: 19, October 2015, 10:41:12 AM »
Malcom,


Here's a link to electricwingman - kit + servo's + motor/esc/prop all for £83 - this is what Paul & Wolfie use. the Clik comes in a choice of 3 colours Green, Red & purple


https://www.electricwingman.com/rc-factory-clik-ng-superlite-purple


Here's a link to the RCG thread on the Clik NG


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2263105


My motor is an XPower 2802 NP feather - weighs just under 12g vs the 15g for the above motor but is twice the cost at £30. I have Hitec 5035's on Ele & Rud & JR DS318 on Ailerons - all work very well but not sure they are worth 5x the cost of the Gening servo set from electricwingman!! (I already had them from a previous model).


We initially used the GWS 8x4.3 plastic prop but have moved on to the PT 9x2.5 carbon prop - reduces downline speed and is better for speed control.


Angus,


I suspect the Clik's Malcolm & David have are previous versions - the one discussed above is the Clik NG or Version 4 which was only released a year ago. B[/size]iggest difference with this one is it's made from EPP & thus much more durable Vs. previous Depron versions. The Clik NG also flies better than the Clik 2.0 I used to have - I think the EPP surface has a lot of drag which is good for this type of activity.

[/size]Steve




Offline Chris Currie

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Re: Help
« Reply #16 on: 19, October 2015, 05:37:57 PM »
I think one of the Clik's Angus is mentioning is the one I built for Malcolm, it's the original v1(the best) but I milled it out to drop a few grams. Fragile as mentioned, however it was very light for it's design so provided you don't hit the deck with a lot of power then you should get away with a few dings.

EPP is great for learning, durable and light. Mark Taylor at MT graphics has some nice designs and the foam parts are cheap, I tend to buy my carbon tube(rarely use rod) and strip from robotbirds as they sell good quality stuff at nice prices. Also they bend the full metre lengths for postage rather than cut them which is better for building.

The questions you need to ask yourself are:-

1. How big is the hall I'll be flying - a standard school gym/basketball court size is ideal for most models.
2. How many people will I be flying with - Busy skies tend to be full of collisions, especially if everyone is relatively new to indoor flying.
3. What kind of flying do I want to do - Basically you can have an out and out schedule plane, clik/Disney/trivia etc. or a more freestyle based design.

Also I wouldn't recommend going down the "mini" shocky route to begin with, the standard size models tend to be a bit lighter loaded, especially if you aren't a light builder.


I have a half built miss piggy v2 which is available. I don't have any gear for it but even with a budget setup would easily get under 100g ready to go. Cost me 50 alone for the foam parts but would let it go for considerably less with the carbon tubing used.

let me know if it's any use.

Cheers
Chris

Offline Malcolm Harris

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Re: Help
« Reply #17 on: 19, October 2015, 07:44:22 PM »
Thanks guys,

I'm not interested in buying a ready built model, I enjoy the assembly and setup phase of a new project.

I think I'm going to attend my local indoor groups first meeting and suss out the hall and flyers before doing anything.

Cheers,
Malcolm

Offline Yoda

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Re: Help
« Reply #18 on: 20, October 2015, 02:05:07 PM »
Hi Chris,

Yes my original V1 and a one of a kind milled "Currie Clik" V1. That must be worth some money now!

How about a small EPP Piper Cub? Even for a man of your indisputable skill and experience (not to mention impartiality) those walls can seem mighty close the first time you fly indoors.